14 to 17 September: Isle of Skye

We had a very calm and pleasant passing from Tarbert to Uig, Skye. We loved the Outer Hebrides, in spite of The Gale... It's hard to leave the small outer islands - they're quite enchanting. 

The skies were sunny and the scenery was stunning. Arrived in the early evening of September 14 and cycled for a few hours around the northeastern coast line before settling into camp at Shulista. We came across an Iron Age Soutterain underground gallery that had been excavated by the community at Kilmuir. 

Above is an artist's depiction of what it looks like. 

Unfortunately it was partially flooded which prevented our traversing its full length. This long and extensive structure was likely used for the storage of dairy foods. Some 500 similar Iron Age structures have been found in Scotland, 20 of them on the isle of Skye.

Sadly, we biked right passed the Museum of Island Life in Kilmuir, a living history museum consisting of several blackhouses and containing a memorial to Flora MacDonald who lived her later years and died on Skye. The museum was long closed and wouldn't open again until 10 am. With how variable the weather on the islands is, we decided to continue cycling while the weather was good - as there are no guarantees the weather will hold! Using cycling as our main mode of transport sure makes it difficult to see and do everything that we would like to here- we are constantly making difficult choices and revising the itinerary based on weather. 

Again, the scenery was spectacular.  As we curved to the northeast we saw some amazing rock formations and cliff sides, beautiful small islands in the distance, and the remains of a ruined castle on a precipice in Duntlum. In the evening light everything seemed to glow. 

Still somewhat traumatized by the our recent stormy night in the tent, we were extremely picky about our choice in campsite. We found a nice sheltered spot and secured the tent tightly. Luckily it was a calm night. But we were both disheartened to wake to a gloomy Scotland day. We started the day cycling with rain gear and never did take it off as the showers were intermittent but frequent. 

We were delighted to see as much of the Trotternish mountain range, the cliff sides and rock formations as we were able. Mountains were poking in and out of clouds, and it did add to the beauty in some ways... although the wet and cold feet did not.

We were disappointed to also miss the museum in Staffin (closed) which houses a dinosaur exhibit. Many of Scotland's dinosaur remains have been found in the cliffs sides in this area. Staffin gets its name from the Vikings, and refers to rock pillars in the Viking language. 

South of Staffin is the Kilt Rock waterfall: 

You can see the pleated rock formation that gives the waterfall its name. 

Further south a ways, we abandoned the bikes for an hour and hiked up the steep wet hillside to see the Old Man of Storr playing in the clouds. 

The Old Man is the one on the left. In the clouds. And rain. 

We met four sodden backpackers at the trailhead and had a laugh at the lovely Scottish weather.

Side note: apparently the wind can really blow here.

This bus shelter looks the worse for wear. We've come to call these little bus shelters "lunch boxes" because we often take lunch in them. They're usually good wind shelters, are usually water resistant, and we've never run into another person needing to use one. They've come in very handy for us on many rainy days. 

The rain let off a bit as we came into Portree, and we had a great view of the old pier road. 

In beautiful Portree we took a rejuvenating break at an Indian restaurant, picked up needed supplies and visited a couple boutiques for a wee shopping fix. Thankfully, we found nothing that we couldn't live without. Well, except for a beer or two from the Co-Op.  (Don't worry mom, they were for later, AFTER we were done cycling for the day!)

We briefly visited the wool and knitwear hut at the side of the road in Edinbane and had fun conversation and a few laughs with the owners. They lost everything in a house fire 18 months ago on the remote island of Colonsay. They subsequently moved to Skye and are in the process of building their business once again. They raise the cutest Hebridean black sheep, process the wool into 5 ply worsted yarn, and create the most magnificent sweaters (jumpers, they call them). If you happen to have an extra $1200 perhaps you would like to buy one for a poor wet cyclist? You can visit their Facebook page... :-)

In Dunvegan we came first to St Mary's church, which lies in ruin. 

There was a beautiful Celtic cross in the cemetery.

And there was a plaque commemorating the pipers of the area. The MacCrimmon's were the pipers for the Clan MacLeod for centuries, and are known for their mastery and innovations of traditional pipe music.

We even found sheet music for a new 2/4 pipe March on an information board at the church!

We camped on the hillside near the Duirinish standing stone in Dunvegan. Our intrepid camp chef, again doing the best he can to fuel the cycling team in wet and windy conditions. 

Erected in the year 2000 using traditional methods, the stone comes from a local beach and weighs 5 tons and is 5 meters tall. The residents put a time capsule at its base- a neat way to mark the millineum

We were tickled to find that the impassioned man who started and continues to run the Angus MacAskill museum in Dunvegan was none other than Danny MacAskill's humble father. If you haven't heard of or seen this incredible young champion and master of the bicycle, please check out this youtube link. 

It will keep you on the edge of your seat. Well, it did ours! And it shows Skye in all its incredible beauty! 

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=xQ_IQS3VKjA

This link is a video of Danny in the Cuillin mountains in the south of Skye- an area we cycled near on our journey south- but we didn't pull any of those stunts (and the weather wasn't so good to us either!)!!! Danny's father reports that the guides and film crew that worked with him during this filming had to cover their eyes at some of the more dangerous stunts!

A bike of Danny's happened to be at the museum when we visited- we were impressed with the size of his disc breaks- and after watching the video, you know why he needs them! Wow!

Apparently, Danny's father (and thus Danny!) are distantly related to Angus MacAskill- a giant measuring to the height of 7' 9" tall and weighing 425 pounds! Being born on the outer Hebrides the giant's family migrated to Cape Breton. 

Angus, the world's largest man, ended up being quite the traveling performer, coupled with 'Tom Thumb', then the world's smallest man. The museum was full of stories of the giant's life, his feats, and all in all it was an interesting visit!

The Dunvegan area was home to three brochs during the Iron Age. Two now stand in ruins (Dun Osdale and Dun Fiadhairt) and one is hypothesized to have existed on the site under the current castle (hence the name of the town Dun Beagan = Dunvegan). Dun= walled settlement. The village grew around the castle, which has gone through many alterations during its history, as various Chiefs have added to the original structure.

In the 9th century Vikings roamed the seas between the Faroes, Iceland and Ireland. The isle of Skye, with its deep lochs and protected bays would have been a convenient place for them to seek shelter.

Dunvegan castle became a fort for the Viking cheiftain Leod who sailed from the Isle of Man in the 13th century. His sons formed the clan MacLeod and Dunvegan castle and has been the seat of clan now for 800 years. It houses many an intriguing artifact, including personal belongings of Flora MacDonald (whose daughter happened to marry into the MacLeod family), a waistcoat of Bonnie Prince Charlie, the ancient 'fairy flag', and numerous impressive portraits of the various MacLeod Chiefs. It was also lovely to walk through the gardens of blooming flowers and waterfalls.

This is a view down the cannon placed on the original rampart wall built in 1200's, looking out at Loch Dunvegan. 

And we saw this:

Think about it and you'll realize how odd it is. (Also notice the sun is shining. That's odd, too.)

We were blessed with sun on our travel south to Carbost.

 Stopping at the Dun Beag broch along the way we were blessed with beautiful views looking west out to sea. Martin Martin, an explorer to the Scottish islands in the 1600's hypothesized that the brochs served a protective mechanism- as one broch could be seen by another broch and so on and so on across the coast- once a fire signal was lit in one broch, a message of potential danger could be sent throughout the land quite quickly. 

Quite fascinating to contemplate and more intriguing and interesting because no one alive today really knows the true purpose of the broch, or what life was like inside of them!

We smiled from ear to ear as we pulled in to the Talisker distillery with only minutes to spare to attend our booked afternoon tour. We were eager to learn about the only single malt produced on the Isle of Skye, and were not disappointed by the tasting at the end. We were completely out of whisky, so we declared a Whisky Emergency and came home (well, down the street to the hostel) with a bottle of the Port Ruighen- a variety matured in a port cask. Lovely. Thank you daD! Again!

Those are the previously recorded tasting notes on Talisker whisky. "Smokiness of an un-stricken match"? What does that even mean? "Smoke and tar exploding"? Yum?

Fabulous sunset!

We were elated to find that the bar at the inn next door had a session, and guess what!? It happened to be for Wednesday- the very same day of our arrival! Spent the evening listening to, and playing some traditional tunes. OMG- did they play fast!!!! 

Here is a pic from the hostel porch looking out over Loch Harport at Carbost.

After a night's rest, we were off again, this time smelling quite good (well, better after a shower and laundry) and with dry (well, at least temporarily drier) gear. Despite the light misting drizzle (see how our vocabulary for rain in its countless forms is growing?), it was a gorgeous morning for cycling with fantastic views of the Cuillins as we headed south. 

This is a view looking south to the Cuillins from Sligachar while swatting at midgies. 

We attempted to escape the violent hordes of these vile beasts by taking coffee at the historic hotel in Sligachar, but they followed us in. Little buggers! They are exceedingly sneaky, beware!

Here's the cool bridge at Sligachan. The bridges are cool here!

Not sure if the photo really shows the colors well here. But if you've ever seen the Skye tartan fabric you'll understand where the colors come from. Even in the mist and rain and downpour, it's beautiful here. 

We did have beautiful views over the water to the island of Raasay. And as we pulled into Sconser, so did the ferry to Raasay!! We thought about taking the ferry over.... but as the heavy clouds in the distance approached, we decided against it. Next time!

The heavier rain started at Broadford and was unrelenting. We dodged the poor weather for an hour or so at a delicious fish and chips shop that happened to have fantastic veg curry too! 

Heavenly!

More of our favorite road-side companions. So cuddly looking. And big!

After Broadford, we rode the A851 to Armadale, a creepily American-looking road. It's easily the widest road we've encountered. 

Loved this road art. Just what are they saying here? 

We had had hopes of touring the Armadale castle and museum but when we arrived to the area we were cold and thoroughly soaked through. Not optimal conditions for a tour of castle ruins. So ... add that to the "next time" list. We thus opted to catch the 1600 ferry to Mallaig and the warmth an awaiting hostel room. God bless the dry bliss of the warm indoors! 

Here we are loading the ferry for Armadale. 

And as we approach Mallaig across the Sound of Sleat. The Sound of Sleat- the wonderful reel!

We will end with a quote from the good man himself:

Lovely place for a cycle tour, eh!? 

Day to day summaries:

September 14 - Tarbert, North Harris (including the tweed tour) to sheilbost, Skye via ferry and A855. On Skye passed though Uig, Kilmuir. Total 24.5 cycled miles (including tweed tour).

September 15 - Shulista to Dunvegan via A854 and A850. Visited the Kilt Rock waterfall, the ruins of Ditotome processing plant, the Old Man of Storr, Portree, 'End of the island' wool and knitwear, Mary's church ruins and Durnish standing stone in Dunvegan. Passed through Flodigarry, Staffin (saw Staffin island out in the distance), Edinbane (Unfortunately their sessions held Monday/ Wednesday/ Sunday). Total 47.8 miles.

September 16 - Dunvegan to Carbost via A863. Visited the Angus MacAskill giant museum, Dunvegan castle/gardens, Dun Beag Broch, the Talisker distillery and the Old Inn for an unexpected trad music session; boB played along on a few sets. Total 24.15 mostly gentle miles with only a slight headwind.

September 17 - Carbost to Mallaig. Easy ride on the A863. Stopped at the historic hotel in Sligachar for coffee. Rode the A87 at a very high clip, with great views of Raasay. Rain started a few miles out of Broadford, and became a steady downpour. Broadford for fish and chips and veg currie. Then south on A851 - a very wide, American-looking highway - through continued downpour. Stopped at Clan Donald center, but didn't tour.  Took 1600 ferry from Armadale to Mallaig. Hostel for the night. Total 41.9 miles.