7 to 8 October: Stirling

Until we reached the large town of Stirling, we didn't realize just how quiet life has been in the remote islands and highlands of Scotland. We missed the calm quietude of small villages and the safety one feels there amidst friendly and curious faces. Now we experience the anonymity of crowds.  It took a few days to completely recover from our culture shock. In the meantime, we did delight in the perks of being back in civilization- a wide variety of restaurants, stores and a myriad of cultural activities. We deeply enjoyed Stirling with its beautiful sites and rich history- it was amazing to simply wander through the cobblestone streets amidst ancient buildings and bustling crowds and ponder life in medieval Scotland. 

This is Scottish youth hostel that we stayed at during our time Stirling. Located in the heart of historic downtown, it was at one time a church, and the associated graveyard still skirts its exterior. We have to admit it was interesting and yet slightly creepy to look out the bedroom window and see gravestones.

Some of these gravestones dated back to the 1700's and frequently had images of skull and crossbones. 

Just down the road from our hostel was the Church of Holy Rude. Sadly, as it is now the "off season", it was closed to visitors (except on Sundays). We did take a lovely walk through the church grounds and its impressive cemetery.

The controversial John Knox preached here in 1567 at the coronation of King James VI. 

This photo was taken looking out towards Castle Wynd with Church of the Holy Rude on the left.

Its cemetery was most unique- the newer area was designed in 1800's to be inviting and scenic  with attractive rolling hills, trees and sculpture, as a way to improve the community's confidence in having a safe and respectable place to bury their dead. (You'll hear more about body snatchers in the post to follow about Edinburgh.)

A modern high cross in the cemetery. 

   

This is the old Cowan hospital, built between 1637- 1649 as an almshouse for poor members of the merchant guild. 

Above is the remains of the castle keep, known as 'Mar's Wark'. It was built in the 1500's for the Earl of Mar, keeper of the castle and regent to the king. It was damaged in the 1745 uprising and subsequently abandoned. 

Entering the gates of Stirling castle, the palace, built by James the V in the 1500's, really catches the eye! It has been renovated, and recently covered with a brilliant coating of "king's gold", a lime plaster similar to what would have originally covered the stone walls. The palace was commissioned prior to the marriage of James the V to Mary of Guise and was fashioned to display the king's wealth, sophistication and learning.  

Looking down the cannon towards the Stirling bridge.

One impenetrable castle wall!

Another view of the stately palace. This was recently renovated by Historic Scotland using much research to ensure an accurate representation of the palace apartments as they would have looked in the 1500's. It took over 10 years and cost £ 12 million!

boB with a new buddy.

Castle staff were dressed in period clothing and told stories about the castle and its inhabitants as we passed from room to room.  

The queen's chambers were striking and luxurious. This lovely lady in waiting was very informative- we learned that queen's bed was so short to prevent demonic ailments. Apparently if you lie flat while asleep you may allow demons to enter your body- they can even cause you to make funny snoring sounds when you rest! For this reason it was common to sleep sitting up. 

This gentleman introduced us to the Stirling heads, which were carved from Polish oak, painted and hung from the ceiling of the King's inner chambers. Finely carved, they represent both royal and mythical people, their aim being to create connections, real or imagined, to the king, thus improving the His Majesty's reputation and exhibiting his right to rule. 

At the top of this photo, you can see the brilliantly painted stirling heads mounted on the ceiling of the king's chambers. Next door to the royal apartments, there is a separate exhibit about the Stirling heads, where you can view the originals up close.

This head represents a "female worthy" - a character from the bible, history or myth with great importance.

Through extensive research, scientists  have analyzed small chips of paint remaining on the heads, and they have attempted here to recreate the color scheme initially intended.

This head represents John Stewart, Duke of Albany.......

And this one, Julius Caesar.

In 1777, well after the English captured the castle and began using it for military barracks, the ceiling collapsed from the weight of the Stirling heads, and they were simply tossed out in the rubbish heap. They were collected and treasured by local people until Jane Ferrer, an artist, happened upon a few of them in the 1800's and became fascinated. She sought them out, in their various locations with various owners, simply to sketch and record them. It was through this documentation that the heads could later be tracked and purchased for Historic Scotland's current display. It is incredible that these 34 little wooden treasures have survived so long in such fine condition and furthermore that they were brought back together again after hundreds of years of separation. It is thought that there may be more Stirling heads still out there.... Maybe in someone's attic just waiting for rediscovery!

The castle's great hall with its timbered ceiling. Designed to accomodate up to 500 guests, this is the largest and finest medieval hall in Scotland. It housed banquets as well as parliament meetings. 

You're never to old to play 'dress up',

Are you?

This lovely building, known as Argyll's lodging is across the Wynd from the castle. Built in 1680's by the Sir William Alexander, the founder of Nova Scotia, and later the home of the 9th earl of Argyll, it was a fine townhome in its day. In the 1800's it came under public ownership, serving first as a military hospital and later as a youth hostel, before transfer of ownership to Historic Scotland. 

Much effort was put into refurbishing the interior to match its original grandeur. During the restoration, one of the walls was uncovered to the *original* paint. What's especially amazing is that the paint was still there and could be restored, even after hundreds of years, and after the building has been used as military hospital and a youth hostel! 

After a full day of touring around in the off-and-rain, we headed off to a very friendly traditional music session at the 'Settle Inn'. 

This historic building was once the stables for the King's horses! In the present day, the musicians who meet up Wednesday evenings are verrifically welcoming. They even invited us to lead a set! What fun!

The next morning we were inspired to play the regal strathspey 'Stirling Castle' in honor of Stirling's rich history. We played it in view of the castle itself, rather than in the castle. Perfect weather, and we sounded good! What you can't see is that we are actually in the cemetery! (Our kind of audience! They don't up and leave! Nor do they throw tomatoes!)

The historic New Stirling Brig. It was over this very same bridge that Bonnie Prince Charlie led his troops during the retreat after the failed attempt to reclaim the castle in 1746.

In honor of the history of [the old] Stirling Brig, we sang a famous song together: 

The famed battle of Stirling brig was actually fought on a older wooden bridge some 25 meters upstream from the stone bridge pictured above. That bridge is no longer extant, partly because it collapsed during the hasty and chaotic English retreat from the battlefield. An team of archaeologists located the original pilings from the wooden bridge, and the location of the old bridge is visible from the new Stirling Brig.

In the 1290's, when the battle was fought, Stirling was such a strategic point as it was home to the only bridge crossing the Forth and connecting lower Scotland with the Northern Highlands. 

After singing, we celebrated the bridge with a good ole macaroni pie from the local bakery at the bridge's edge. A distinctly Scottish delicacy, the macaroni pie both baffled and intrigued us. Macaroni in a pie? Being the perfect carb- intense combo, it fueled us around Stirling for the entire day!

We ventured East towards the Wallace monument.  Built in 1889 to honor William Wallace, the monument stands some 67 meters tall on Abbey Craig, the very hillside from which Wallace is thought to have surveyed the English troops prior to the battle of Stirling bridge.

A true patriot and freedom fighter, Wallace was born the second son in a family of minor nobility. He rose to great heights, even serving as guardian of Scotland after the battle of Stirling Brig. Sadly, he was later betrayed to the English and was subsequently transported to London to be hanged, disemboweled and quartered. The legend of Wallace has endured centuries and he is a continued source of inspiration. (Even for Mel Gibson.)

To see the true-to-history version of Braveheart's story, follow the link below to Sir Tony Robinson's historic documentary:

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=UjbMeqgiX4Y

(Much better than braveheart!)

The monument was built in the Victorian gothic style. 

As we admired the statue of Wallace looming above us we tried really hard to to look upwards in the kilt region.

246 steps to go!!

A wee comparison....

boB plays Braveheart in the kid's room. 

Then, Melinda has a go.

 Looking out over the winding river Forth from the Wallace monument.

In honor of Scotland's national hero, we played a set of Scottish marches at the top of the monument. We felt honored when a local gentleman came up to us afterwards and said that, although he had been to monument many times, this was the best experience due to the accompaniment. Surly there is magic to music and we have witnessed time and time again through our travels how it brings the history of this incredible country alive.

One last look at the monument on our way to the Abbey.

The beautiful Cambuskenneth Abbey. Or rather, what remains of it- the lone clock tower. After the Protestant reformation (approximately 1560 AD), the Abbey was ruined and it is said that the remaining stone was carted into Stirling to be used in construction of the Mars Wark (in photo near the top of this post). King James III is buried here with his Queen Margaret. 

The next morning we traveled a wee south of Stirling to pay hommage to another of Scotland's great heroes- Robert the Bruce.

Robert the Bruce led the infamous battle at Bannockburn, which led to a great period of Scottish Independence from England. 

Of course we thought of Susan, our Scottish country dance teacher, and her husband Richard as well our dear Tuesday night dancing friends. One of our favorite dances is entitled 1314, in honor of this pivotal point in Scottish history. It is so meaningful to be here in Scotland, learning firsthand about the culture which is deeply embedded in the music and dance we both love dearly. 

There was a sense of eerie heaviness in the air at the battlefield as we considered the intensity of medieval battle and the number of men who died here. Haunting. 

On a happier note.....

We made an uplifting visit to the bagpipe maker! And boB picked out his next musical fascination: a bagpipe practice chanter! It's smaller than a fiddle, has fewer strings than a fiddle, doesn't require rosin, weighs less and is easier to carry on a bike, and requires eight fingers to play instead of just three or four! Stay tuned for more about bagpipe practice chanter(s) in the weeks to come!!

7 October: Visited Stirling castle, Argyll's lodging, Mars Walk, Church of Holy Rude. Attended session at the 'Settle Inn'. Total 0 miles.

8 October: Visited Gowan Hill, Mote hill with its beheading stone, the old Stirling Brig, the Wallace monument, the Cambuskenneth Abbey and a local bagpipe maker. Revisited the castle and the 'Settle Inn' for a delicious pint next to the peat fire. Total 8 miles.

9 October. Bannockburn battlefield en route to Edinburgh. Stay tuned!