Monday, July 4, 2016

Scoil Samhraidh Willie Clancy - Miltown Malbay

When we arrived in Ennis we hopped off the train and rode through town to Custy's music shop. We had stopped at this music shop back in January during our first Ireland adventure, and we had been looking forward to returning ever since!


After gazing googly-eyed at music books and instruments for a good while, we rode about 13 miles west to Miltown Malbay, where we would be staying for the week at Junior and Angie's summer cottage, 'Kitty's Rest'. We met Junior and Angie in January at the Shannonside Festival, and stayed at their house in Sixmilebridge. They encouraged us to look into the Willie Clancy festival as they knew we were music lovers. We stayed in touch with them during our time away and they kindly offered for us to camp in their back garden during the festival. Here is their summer home in Miltown:


And here is ours:


Home for the week!



The Willie Clancy festival starts with a dedication to The Man Himself, at his graveside just outside of Miltown Malbay. Willie Clancy, 1918-1973, was a musician and carpenter from Miltown Malbay.


He made a huge impression on his friends and fellow musicians and when he passed away, 43 years ago, they initiated the Willie Clancy summer school in his honor. Willie played the whistle, flute and the ulliliann pipes, but the festival caters to musicians of all sorts: harpists, fiddlers, concertina and accordian players, mouthharpers, drummers, and, of course, pipers. They also have amazing Irish set and step dance classes, and put on ceilidhs nearly every night of the festival week!


This kind gent, Sean McKiernan, used to play with Willie Clancy, and treated us to a slow aire on his uilleann pipes:


The Festival brings in musicans from Brittany, as well, because of the strong ties between the Celtic nations.


These three fellows play the Breton bagpipes, the bombard, and the drum. The pipes are pitched quite high and are very loud, and the bombard is terrifically loud! The music was completely captivating, and now we want to add these two instruments to our stable! :-)



Milltown Malbay surely is the town of traditional music! It was fun to wander the streets and see how the festival and its music took over the town.

Little tents selling random bits and bobs sprung up on the streets and there were 'pop-up' music shops, like this one below, that moved into vacant storefronts just for the week:


We've never before seen so many musicians in one place! The number of impromptu sessions happening in the pubs & cafes and the groups busking on the street was impressive. You couldn't go 10 feet without hearing a new set of tunes...


One of the prime busking spots was the Willie Clancy statue on the main drag. At first we thought it could be fun to keep track and tally up the different busking groups we saw there... But we quickly lost count! 


Then, we read a shocking article;


Of course we were concerned and went to check....


And found Willie and his pipes safe & sound. This is Melinda with her new set of uilliann pipes!

With a stroke of good fortune, Melinda was able to sign up at the very last minute for a slot in the absolute-beginners uilliann pipe class, which took place in house #22 Ballard Road.


Generous members of the community offer up their homes as a location for music classes during the festival week. It was amazing to see how the community came together and how the town was transformed to allow for such a large event to take place!


Maitiú Ó Casaide, a piper and teacher from Dublin, patiently encouraged and nurtured the class through a week of squeaks and squeals. 



Every morning a small group of us cleared out the furniture and bonded with pipes in the kitchen! (It is I ronic that our bagpipe teacher in Scotland used the term 'kitchen piping' to describe unorthodox playing! Now I am proud to be playing pipes in the kitchen!)

Here is Melinda's pipe tutor Maitiú, giving a quick taste of what can be done on the pipes with a bit of dedication and practice:



Melinda was able to borrow a set of practice pipes - the chanter, bag, and bellows - and brought them home to play and practice during the week. It was a blessing to be able to bring them home and get some "Bellows Time." At the end of the first day, she'd already made some progress... 


...though not without a little commentary from Junior! Yes, the cat was dying. It is true. 

And boB had a go at it, as well:




And decided to stick with the fiddle for the week!

The uilliann piping program at Willie Clancy is quite strong- and the community of uilliann pipers is growing worldwide. Back when NPU (Na Píobairí Uilleann - an Irish piping society) was formed in 1968, there were only ~100 pipers, and these were mostly aged men in Ireland. Now there are 5000 - 7000 uilleann pipers in the world! Quite a come-back! And a reflection of the dedication and effort of pipers to teach & share their knowledge!

There were daily lunchtime uilleann piping concerts at Willie Clancy week. The following photo is from Friday's recital- in the center is Máira, our Irish teacher from the Blas festival, with four other lady pipers:






And now a wee break for a bit of Irish wisdom and humor:


And an amusing gig rig advert:


They've got it all covered! 

After days of healthy salad eating, we decided it was time to support the local chipper. We ordered chips and a side of coleslaw:


and were surprised when they handed out this creative concoction. It was.....interesting. Can't say we'd highly recommend it, but it's good to try new things, right?

As part of the festival, there were daily lectures on topics of music and Irish culture. We learned about the history of traditional music in nearby Ennis, and about the ethnomusicologist Seamus Ennis who cycled through Ireland collecting traditional songs/tunes from locals, as well as the shared history of tunes/songs from Scotland & Ireland.....


as well as the social history of poems and ballads relating to the 1916 rising.


There was a lot to take in, and we learned a tremendous amount in our week at Milltown!


Recitals were held daily and were instrument-focused. For example, at the banjo recital we heard 2 hours of non-stop banjo action. We'd never see so many banjos on stage (we counted 11 at one point)!!


The amazing week ended with an intensive four hour concert of the creme de la creme in Irish trad. 

We were impressed by the number of musical groups that consisted of family members:


A lovely visiting Scottish couple:


The fiddler on the right was also boB's Scots Gaelic teacher for the week.

We also caught several performances and a lecture given by the one and only Alan McDonald, who plays the small pipes and sings hauntingly along in Gaelic:


And an incredible fiddler from Glasgow, Ryan Young, who recently graduated with a masters in music at the age of 20!


To conclude, a wee bit of humour:


Next stop is Liscannor for a final week of HelpX...stay tuned!

Limerick: Blas Music Festival

Our first night in Limerick we ventured out to find the University Concert Hall (UHC) for a concert of Blas festival staff. In the UHC we found these beautiful venetian glass tile mosaics depicting the tale of 'Buile Subhaine' from medieval Irish literature.


This story describes an Irish king from Ulster who was driven mad from a curse from St. Ronan.



The king wandered restlessly until death. 



Somewhat tragic. But intriguing and interesting at the same time. Like most of Irish history, one could argue.

We enjoyed a phenomenal concert of Blas tutors, including the one and only Martin Hayes on fiddle and Colin Dunn, the gravity-defying dancer:



At the end, all the Blas tutors got on stage together for a final set - Tarbolten:



We had a grand time living on this gorgeous and modern campus. There isn't one building with straight contours!


We especially like the funky pedestrian bridge over the river Shannon:



The odd bike storage facility at our dorm building had us dodging sheets all week! Apparently the cleaning staff pile the sheets there and weekly the laundry wagon picks them up. 


But judging by the massive volume of unwashed sheets, the laundry wagon hasn't been around in a good long while!

One of several rowdy sessions at the 'Scholar's Club' on UL campus:


Mid-week, we attended an excellent concert of Irish ballads entitled "Songs of Rebellion" at the medieval St. Mary's Cathedral in Limerick.




This cathedral, founded in 1168 AD, is gorgeous and has amazing acoustics! 


The cathedral was built on the site of a previous palace, which was built on the site of a previous Viking settlement. Limerick had been the most westerly stronghold of the Vikings in Europe. Again, note the layers of history!

.
As part of the festival we took Irish Gaelic class - this is Máire Ni Ghráda on the right, a uilleann piper/Gaelic language expert who taught our course, and Eliazbeth on the left, one of the top pupils and concert pianist.


Believe it or not, this is actually a map of rhythms...


Steve Cooney, one of Melinda's guitar tutors for the week, developed a brilliant system for notating and teaching rhythm. He developed the system for teaching rhythm to young children, but found that it works very well for adults. Steve is a tremendous guitar players as well as an inspiring and talented teacher.


Here is Steve with his son, who plays bagpipes and banjo. 


There were outstanding musicians at Blas throughout the week and there were lunch time concerts daily with pipers, pianists, fiddlers, concertina players, guitarists, flautists, and ...



... outstanding drummers!!

Blas is held at Limerick University in part due to the University's Irish cultural studies programs, and we were treated to a dance performance by two of the dance majors at UL:



Loads of Blas attendees are there to study traditional Irish dance, including a fun bunch of folks all the way from Argentina, Korea and México!


Here are the members of the class who participated in the final ensemble concert. 


On the river front ...


boB helping the bronze Dock Workers to move a large bronze plank. Go, boB!

And a memorial to the 1916 Rising on the O'Connell bridge:


We also visited the Frank McCourt museum. Frank McCourt wrote the novel 'Angela's Ashes', (we had watched the movie in Galway) and the museum is housed the very school building that he attended as a child. 



At the Frank McCourt museum, we traveled back in time and stepped into the Limerick of 1930's, and received a history lesson in Frank's own classroom from Mick.


A bit younger than Frank, Mick had lived in the same area of Limerick as Frank when growing up. Mick knows Frank's living siblings, and stays in touch with his classmates from the time. A brilliant story teller and tour guide, and we appreciated the private tour we had from Mick, and the opportunity to learn about Limerick's past.

Later we enjoyed some traditional Irish music at the Locke, which claims to be Limerick's oldest traditional Irish pub:


These two lasses, who had just graduated nursing school, kindly shared their table with us since the place was fairly full of folks waiting to hear the music. We talked nursing and had some good craic. 


Before heading to the train station we toured Limerick a wee, and found King James' castle. 


Next to the castle we found a statue of Michael Hogan, a famous Bard and poet from Limerick country. 


He wrote poems and satires that were quite influential in Ireland during the late 1800's. He obviously has a sense of humour!



On a building next to the castle we found this mural:


It's a bit creepy, but very neatly done and with lots of detail. 

And, of course:


This time they promise fame and glory in the media!!


Then it was back to the train station...


...and on to Miltown Malbay for the Willie Clancy festival!!